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Information

This information pertains to the Hydraulic Lift Systems for the V1 campers. These campers are numbered #1 to #39.

The hydraulic cyclinders are made by custom cylinders international.

 

Problems

Hydraulic Leaks

Reports of leaking hydraulics due to the system being ‘held’ open by the hydraulic struts. The manufacturers and XPCamper stated that the issues arised due to a different material being used on some hydraulic lifts. New versions of the lift may fix the issue / be more reliable.

Misaligned Roof

The hydraulics may get an air bubble inside, causing the roof to not sit level when raised / lowered. See Bleeding Air from Hydraulics in the tip section below. 

Tips

Bleeding Air from Hydraulics

Directions for bleeding the hydraulic lines can be found in the documentation provided by XPCamper and Custom Cylinders International.

The following are some alternate ways to try to bleed a small air bubble out of the lines without resorting to the more involved methods described in the manual.

These directions are not officially approved by XPCamper or Custom Cylinders International, so follow at your own risk. I am only restating the verbal directions I was given as a courtesy to others, but I cannot be held responsible for the results.

This is a summary of the verbal instructions I was given in October 2017 over the phone by Dean at XP Camper and later by Gawain at Custom Cylinders International when trying to troubleshoot an issue with my lift system that caused the lid to raise and lower in a crooked position. Per those conversations, the following are methods that they told me to use in an attempt to try to eliminate an air bubble from the system:

 

hydraulic lift 

  • Raise the lid fully and then lower it halfway. Lower it the rest of the way manually using the manual release valve. They told me to repeat this process a few times in the hopes that it will bleed out the air bubble.
  • Raise the lid, then lower it all the way and continue to depress the “down” button on the remote for 10-15 seconds after the lid is all the way down. The idea is to force the pump to flush fluid through the lines and back into the tank with the goal of carrying the air bubble into the tank where it will dissipate. Repeat this process several times. I do not know the exact duty cycle of the hydraulic pump, but to decrease the risk of overheating the pump, it’s important to let it rest for a few minutes between each cycle.
  • Raise the lid and enter the camper. Be sure to close the lower door. The main safety manifold should be open. Remove the dinette seat cushions and then remove the small hatches that provide access to the tops of cylinder #3 (back right) and cylinder #4 (back left). Using a box wrench, gently loosen the connection just a tiny amount until hydraulic fluid seeps out for a few seconds. It would be a good idea to pack the area with paper towels before bleeding the connection to catch any fluid that leaks out. Make certain that you just barely loosen the fitting enough to let oil seep out. Do not loosen it too much or the fitting might blow off which could lead to catastrophic consequences.They told me to repeat the process at the top of each cylinder as necessary. In my case, the lid visually and audibly settled into a more even position when I had identified the problem cylinder. It took just a small amount of oil seeping out of the loosened fitting to cause noticeable results. Tighten the fitting again and the raise and lower the lid to check the results. Repeat the process if necessary.
  • Check the hydraulic fluid reservoir tank. Dean told me that it should be about halfway full when the lid is in the up position. Add fluid per the manufacturer’s instructions if the fluid is low since a low fluid level could lead to the introduction of air into the system.

(Markus)